Oneonta Restaurant Is Simply Tasty, Simply Thai

By GAYANE TOROSYAN
ONEONTA

As global trade tensions rise, Simply Thai, a popular downtown restaurant in Oneonta, faces the challenge of maintaining its affordability and reputation in the face of increasing tariffs on Asian goods.

Owner Lily Karabinis said heightened competition at her supplier’s warehouse has made it difficult for local businesses to secure essential ingredients without driving up costs.

“A lot of people who have money or a big business buy it all,” she said. “For us, the inventory that we have, everything is going up. And we cannot raise the prices, because it would affect everybody.”

A distributor purchases authentic Thai food supplies from a New York City market and delivers them to Oneonta twice a week, Karabinis said. However, obtaining those supplies has become increasingly challenging as businesses stock up on inventory in bulk ahead of tariff-related price increases.

Despite economic challenges, Oneonta residents continue to pack the restaurant during lunch and dinner hours, Karabinis said. She noted that some patrons are exercising financial caution due to broader uncertainty.

“Money-wise, I think some people are holding back,” Karabinis said, explaining that fiscal concerns are making customers more hesitant to splurge on fine dining.

Still, demand for Thai cuisine has surged, a trend Karabinis attributes to HBO’s third season of “The White Lotus,” which highlighted the vibrant flavors of Southeast Asia.

“After watching the series, many new customers told us they came here because they had to try Thai food,” Karabinis said.

Linda Bird, Karabinis’ younger sister, shared her thoughts on one of the show’s filming locations.

“I went to the hotel where they made the movie, about three years ago, and it’s really nice,” she said, referring to Anantara Baan, one of several locations used to depict the fictional White Lotus resort.

Supunsa “Sai” Bordács, a native of Thailand and an employee at Simply Thai, shared a lighthearted moment illustrating her son’s aversion to spicy food.

“I tell him, ‘But you are Thai!’” she quipped, her smile reflecting the blend of humor and cultural pride.

Bordács, married to a Hungarian American, embraces the rich tapestry of their family’s mixed heritage, and aspires for her three school-age children to share in that appreciation.

Lily Karabinis reflected on her pride in her two sons, 45-year-old Sorot “Title” Karabinis and 39-year-old Anastasios “Tasi” Karabinis. Both once assisted in the family restaurant but have since relocated—Title to Arizona and Tasi to New Jersey. Title is a father of two, a daughter and a son, while Tasi is anticipating the arrival of his first child in August, Lily Karabinis said.

Simply Thai occupies the space once known as Corfu Diner, a restaurant that Lily Karabinis and her late husband, Panagiotis “Takis” Karabinis, operated until 2010. The Corfu Diner—a staple for traditional Greek and American fare—had already introduced some Thai dishes before the couple decided to transform the venue into a full-fledged Thai restaurant. Simply Thai opened its doors in 2011 with the intention of keeping the menu authentic.

“I heard the word on the street was that we were going to be very expensive,” Karabinis said.

She explained that while everything served at the restaurant, including the bagged Thai iced tea, is sourced directly from Thailand, they strive to keep prices reasonable. Over time, she said, customers have embraced the restaurant as a staple in Oneonta’s dining scene.

In preparation for the opening back in 2011, Lily Karabinis spent time studying successful Thai restaurants in Ithaca, including Tamarind and Taste of Thai, to better understand the nuances of the cuisine. The owner of the restaurants, a close friend of Karabinis, not only shared her authentic Thai recipes but also assisted her in sourcing supplies. This support became crucial as wholesale purchases from a New York City warehouse grew more viable for businesses vying for larger inventories amid rising prices from anticipated tariffs.

After the death of her husband, Panagiotis, at the age of 68 on November 25, 2022, Karabinis turned to her sister, Linda Bird, who lived in New York City. Bird now assists with managing Simply Thai while Karabinis balances her time at Plaza Diner.

Panagiotis’ brother, Paul Karabinis, 75, had also left his mark on the local dining scene as the owner of Neptune Diner, a Southside establishment fondly remembered by Oneonta’s college community. Neptune Diner played host to countless meals between local faculty members and job candidates, contributing to its iconic status.

After 28 years of serving the Oneonta community, the Neptune Diner shut its doors in 2013. Owner Paul Karabinis turned his focus toward growing his B&K Coffee company, a venture he started alongside his son.

The former diner site has been transformed into a bustling plaza, featuring popular chains such as Moe’s Southwest Grill and Jersey Mike’s Subs. The transformation reflects the area’s shift toward modern dining options while marking the end of an era for the community staple.

For the Karabinis family, the decision to separate Corfu Diner’s menu into two distinct entities wasn’t just a business move—it was an opportunity to expand their reach. In addition to Simply Thai, Lily and Panagiotis opened Plaza Diner, first located kitty-corner from Simply Thai, to serve breakfast and traditional Mediterranean specialties such as spanakopita and baklava. Plaza Diner caters to Oneonta’s early risers, offering bottomless coffee alongside familiar comfort food staples.

In March 2022, the Karabinises purchased Morey’s Family Restaurant on Route 7 in Oneonta’s east end and relocated Plaza Diner to the newly-acquired space. Both restaurants remain beloved fixtures in the local dining scene, symbolizing the Karabinis family’s resilience and dedication to culinary excellence.

Customers at Simply Thai may notice trays with small bowls of food placed both inside and outside the restaurant. Owner Lily Karabinis said the offerings reflect her Buddhist philosophy, which underscores respect for unseen forces and the interconnectedness of all beings.

In Southeast Asia, the spirits of the home are seen as benevolent guardians, often thought to be deceased family members watching over the household. These spirits are honored with a special place inside homes and are treated with deep reverence. At Simply Thai, a tray of offering is placed not only at the statue of Buddha, but also before a portrait of Thailand’s King Bhumibol Adulyadej, known as Rama IX, whose reign from 1946 to 2016 spanned more than 70 years, making him the longest-serving independent Asian sovereign on record and the third-longest of any state in history.
Outside homes and businesses, offerings such as flowers, incense, food, and drinks are presented to honor Phra Phum, the guardian spirit of the land. The practice is believed to ensure harmony and protection for the local community.

For Lily Karabinis, community connection is central to her restaurant’s mission. With a multicultural team in the kitchen, Simply Thai has brought people together over dishes spiced to each customer’s taste, rated from one to five in heat—but always a perfect 10 in flavor.